Tuesday, July 1, 2008

CHIKANKARI EMBROIDERY


Introduction
Chikan is the form of embroidery that is recognized for its timeless appeal. The word Chikan just means embroidery. A very subtle and suggestive white stitch on white is what is known ias chikan work. Chikan work is also known as the ‘white embroidery since it was always done with white thread on white fabric that is white on white.Thoudg today several pastel and dark shades have been employed as the base color, the thread remains to be predominatly white.
Places
The extremely lovely and elegent style of embroidery is produced in Lucknow.Though there are several other places where this art exists. They are Calcutta, Dacca, Varanasi, Bhopal, Allahabad, Delhi, Agra, Rampur, Patna and Gaya.
Thread
Whote cotton thread has always remained the choice of the embroidere, though earlier samples show the use of muga silk and tusser silk threads in yallow and off-white.
Stitch
The stitches commonly employed are herring-bone, back stitch, stem stitch, French knot, bullion knot, buttonhole, running stitch and satin stitch, being the rarely used.To be specific there are six type of Chikankari stitches, better known for their local names.
1.Bukhia: The most beautiful among the six, which appears as small stitch on the right side for outline while on the wrong side it is seen as a criss-cross pattern.
2. Khatao: It is better known as cheap imitation of Bukhia.Thr stitch is is a form of appliqué work prepared on a calico material.
3. Taipchi: This is mostly done by women on their saries.This is a type of running stitch with which the outlines are worked.
4. Jali: An effect of drawn thread work is achieved whitout drawing out any any threads.
5. Murri and Phanda: They are the most characteristics forms of chikan work and are used mostly to work out the center of the flower.Murri means rice shape and Phanda millet shape,The stitch essentially a French knot.
Fabric
Earlier fine Muslin in white, was the only fabric used.Today it is any fine fabric with transparency is used.

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